Independence Day

Today officially marks our independence from Santiago, and coincidentally today also marks Chile’s 1810 independence from Spain.

We are now in Valparaiso on the coast of Chile [map].

But first, what did we learn in Santiago?

1. “Do you want to go to the park?” means “Do you want to go make out?”

2. Excessive sugar is appropriate on everything (i.e. salad, popcorn, sugar, meat, water and air)

3. Pablo Neruda is the man.

4. The sun does not penetrate smog.

5. Laundromats provide the most up to date tourist information. (We met a particularly rowdy “laundress” who told us everything we need to do in the next few months. Then her friend came and did the same.)

6. WiFi is everywhere: subways, gas stations, parks…

7. Ellen does not know how to use electronic (Mark does not know how to speak English).

8. Every other person has 9 piercings.

9. Although new to cities, Ellen has yet to fall in any holes.

10. Terremoto means volcano in Spanish. Terremoto means pineapple ice cream, mysterious alcoholic substance and white wine in Santiago.

11. No farms in Santiago.

Enjoy the pictures. We had some good times, but are happy to have moved on.

Comunidad

We spent another week contemplating our existence in Santiago while trying to absorb as much of it as possible. From graduation at the Spanish language school, where we received diplomas proving our proficiency, to wanderings through Santiago’s streets, I find myself more and more accustomed to the language and confident in my ability to communicate. Immersion into a city with a population of 4.5 million is bound to fill your head with palabras nuevas.

While Mark finished school, I spent hours walking through Santiago trying to prepare for our ventures into the farmlands and trying to understand what makes this city tick. It has been hard to find a sense of place amongst the hustle and bustle, though the days have been busy and the distance covered large. There are pockets of beauty in Santiago, as there are pockets of beauty everywhere, places where we can find ourselves at peace. The smaller cafes, the winding streets, the older buildings, all present themselves as oases where it was possible to absorb this new experience.

On the bus to and from our home in the southern part of the city to the center, I found myself wanting to know the different lives of the people around us. We all share this small amount of time in transit together yet choose to go about our days separately. I am craving community. I have never spent this much time in a city of this size, and I am wondering about cities of this size in general.  At the top of San Cristobal or aboard the teleferico (tram-like trip atop Cerro San Cristobal in the center of the city) I could not see beyond the city limits because the smog was so heavy, even on a clear day. What does it mean to live in place where it is impossible to see beyond it? This is a very new concept for me, and as we head out to the farm, we will be able to see Santiago from the other side, and understand what lies beyond it, which is really what this is about. Land is universal.

- Ellen

Algunas Cosas de Santiago

Ruth (and Jon) drop us off: Newark Airport.

New Jersey to Santiago. With a stop in George Bush Airport (Houston) followed by a stop in Panama City, we had no expectation to arrive quickly. With a few blinks and several naps, we find ourselves in the Southern Hemisphere.

4am. We land in Santiago. Customs, immigration, luggage and on to a shuttle bus. Driver gets Lost. 5am, arrive at EcoHostel. We sleep on the couch till Marcelo checks us in.

We are warmly welcomed into the EcoHostel community — based in a window saturated mansion a few blocks south of the center. New Friends: an Australian teaching English, a Californian studying abroad, a French couple biking around the world, an American Ethno-musicologist and a chillin’ Chilean.

Santiago is a big city, a very big city, and we came here to farm. What are we doing in Santiago!? Learning Spanish, being overwhelmed and confirming the horrors (and popularity) of processed food.

After a fruitful 2 days in the hostel, we moved to Nuñoa, a barrio quite far from, well, everything. Francisco and Milena welcomed us into their home along with two other borders. A very kind couple. No English is spoken. Our interactions are limited. Only dinner time (10pm) do our paths cross. Although the family is wonderful, their food choices are far from ideal. As we know food is life and life is hard without proper nutrition.

We are eager to get to our farms.

What’s the rough plan?

First, we are going to Roberto’s farm in Curacavi (the west). Roberto is an entomologist, intensive cattle breeder and caretaker of orchards.

After an undecided period of time, we will head south to the Lake District of Chile to an EcoVillage called EcoAldea Millawapi in Coñaripe. Then off to a farm in Puerto Montt followed by WWOOF Argentina.

We are anxious and psyched.

Currently, we are spending our times at Arancua Language School and roaming the streets and hills of the city.

Ellen: “Spanish speaking is skyrocketing, spirits lifted daily by friendly Chileans, Brazilians, and the sight of the snow-covered Andes to the east, learning how to eat meat again, wearing colorful scarves, missing the land, and dreaming of the south. Love to you all.”

Mark: “Classes are great. My teacher, Felix, is a philosopher at heart. While grammar is the focus, Felix spends much time dissecting the poetry of Pablo Neruda, Juan Manual Serrot and Lorca as well as guiding us through the music of Chilean artists like Violeta Para and Victor Jara. It’s been wonderful, but truly intensive.”

We will be with our family till mid next week, then we will go on vacation from Santiago to Valparaiso then to farm numero uno.

We miss you all very much.

Here are some pictures for your perusement (yes, we are forgetting English).